Berkhamsted Castle

The earthworks here are what catch you first - massive concentric rings of ditches and banks that tell you straightaway this was serious medieval business. Berkhamsted Castle sits just outside Chesham in Buckinghamshire, and what remains is largely Norman motte-and-bailey fortification from the 11th century, though the stone keep came later. You're walking around genuine archaeological remains rather than a reconstructed visitor attraction, which means there's real history in the ground beneath your feet.

The site itself is free to wander, accessible all year round. Allow a solid hour if you're actually interested in what you're looking at - rushing round in twenty minutes misses the point entirely. The views from the top of the motte aren't dramatic, but they're proper pleasant, and on a clear day you get a real sense of the strategic position the Normans chose. Family groups with kids who can manage a bit of uneven walking will find the earthworks fun to clamber about on, though there's no visitor centre, shop, or facilities to speak of.

It's genuinely worth fitting in if you're based at one of the nearby campsites - Highridge Farm or Fuzzy's Farm are both within walking distance. The castle works well as a morning outing before heading into Chesham proper for lunch. History buffs will appreciate the authenticity of an unsanitised site, though those expecting turrets and towers will be disappointed. This is archaeology, not theme park history.