Greyhound Inn and Hotel Usk

The Greyhound Inn in Usk is one of those proper old coaching inns that actually feels like it's been serving travellers for centuries - because it has. Sitting in the heart of this quiet market town just a handful of miles north of Chepstow, it's the sort of place where you can imagine horses being tied up outside and weary travellers collapsing into rooms upstairs. The building itself is attractive in that understated Welsh way, with period features that suggest genuine history rather than theme-park recreation.

You're really here for two reasons: a pint and a bed. The bar has that lived-in quality - all dark wood and low ceilings - and the rooms upstairs are decent enough, nothing fancy but comfortable. It's the kind of spot where locals actually drink, which says something. If you're staying at Penhein Glamping nearby, this is worth the short drive into town for an evening out. Usk itself is worth a wander round, a proper little town with some character, and the inn anchors it nicely.

For a South Wales base, it works well. You're close enough to Chepstow for the castle and the river, but Usk feels less touristy. Allow a couple of hours if you're stopping for food and a drink. There's no admission fee - you just walk in. Best to ring ahead if you're planning to stay.