Pen Lifau

The walk up Pen Lifau takes you through proper moorland, the kind that opens up properly once you've committed to the climb from Llangadog. It's not a long slog - most people manage the ascent in under an hour - but it's steep enough that you'll feel you've earned the view when you reach the summit.

From the top you get views across the Towy Valley that stretch for miles on a clear day. The landscape rolls away in shades of green and brown, with the river winding through farmland below. On grey days it feels properly wild; on sunny ones it's genuinely lovely.

This is walker's territory, really. Not much for sitting about - there's no visitor centre or cafe - but if you're staying at Erwlon or Riverside Pods and fancy a half-day circuit, it's well worth the detour. Fit families will manage it, though younger kids might find the gradient tedious. The moorland paths can get boggy depending on the season, so decent boots matter.

Allow two to three hours for a proper loop including time at the top. Early morning is when the weather tends to be clearest, and you'll have the summit mostly to yourself. It slots in nicely with exploring the Towy Valley more broadly - Llangadog itself is worth a wander, and the surrounding walking is proper excellent if you're the type who likes to string days together.