Forres

Four thousand years of history carved in stone - that's what hits you first about this market town on the Moray coast. Sueno's Stone towers over Forres like a granite exclamation mark, its Pictish symbols telling stories from when this place was already ancient.

Forres sits proper between the Cairngorms and the Moray Firth, making it brilliant for anyone wanting Highland drama without the tourist hordes. The town itself is compact and workmanlike - no nonsense, but with enough character to keep you interested for a morning's wander. Pop into Claysongs Ceramics Studio if you fancy something creative, or climb up to the James Thomson Monument for views across the surrounding countryside.

What really makes this area special is the landscape. Romach Hill and Clarkly Hill offer decent walks without being too strenuous, while Càrn Ghiubhais gives you proper mountain views if you're feeling energetic. The Califer Viewpoint is well worth the drive - on a clear day you can see right across the Moray Firth to the Black Isle.

History buffs will love the Pictish connections. Burghead Well is a short drive north and shows how sophisticated these ancient people were. The various war memorials, including the one at Findhorn and Kinloss, remind you this area has seen its share of conflict over the centuries.

Getting here is straightforward - Forres sits on the A96 between Inverness and Aberdeen. It's about 30 minutes from Inverness by car, with regular bus connections too. The town makes a cracking base for exploring both the coast and the hills, and camping nearby means you can wake up to those big Moray skies every morning.