Coed Glan-yr-afon

The forest sprawls across the hillside above Pwllheli with the kind of understated beauty that sneaks up on you. Coed Glan-yr-afon - the name means 'forest by the river' - is a proper working woodland rather than a manicured visitor attraction, which means you'll find proper walking here instead of themed routes and tea rooms.

What you get is miles of trails winding through mixed woodland, with the river running below and views opening up across the Cardigan Bay side of Gwynedd when the trees thin out. It's the sort of place where you can spend twenty minutes or three hours depending on your legs and mood. The paths are muddy in places, steep in others, and genuinely quiet on weekdays - no crowds, no car park theatre.

Families with older kids will find real exploring here rather than hand-holding supervision, which is either brilliant or annoying depending on your view of outdoor parenting. Walkers and local history types get the most out of it, though the woodland itself is more about the walk than the facts. The river's worth following if you're patient enough to pick your way down.

It's free to access, which is rare enough to mention. Nearest car parking is around Pwllheli itself. Allow at least ninety minutes if you're doing anything beyond a stroll. The nearby holiday parks - Away From It All's glamping option or Brook Cottage's shepherd huts - are well-positioned for basing a woodland-focused break here, though you'll want proper waterproofs whatever the forecast says.