Pwllheli

The Welsh seaside doesn't get much more authentic than this corner of the Llŷn Peninsula, where the high street still has proper butchers and the harbour smells of salt and diesel. Pwllheli anchors this stretch of Cardigan Bay coastline with a no-nonsense market town atmosphere - it's working Wales rather than tourist Wales, which makes it all the more appealing.

The Warren offers miles of sandy beach that's brilliant for dog walking, especially out of season when you'll have it largely to yourself. Iron Man gallery showcases local artists, while Plas Glyn-y-Weddw houses more ambitious exhibitions in a lovely Victorian setting. Both are well worth an hour if the weather turns.

Surrounding hills provide proper walking country. Mynydd Tir-Y-Cwmwd gives cracking views across the peninsula, and the ancient chambered tomb up there reminds you people have been drawn to these heights for millennia. Garn Boduan and Foel Gron offer different perspectives on the same dramatic landscape - rolling farmland meeting the Irish Sea.

Getting here means following the A499 from Caernarfon, about 40 minutes through some lovely countryside. The train line from Machynlleth still runs, though it's a bit of a trek from most places. Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense - you're ideally placed for exploring the entire western tip of Wales, from Abersoch's sailing scene to the wilder reaches around Bardsey Island. Plus you can stock up on supplies in town without the tourist markup you'll find in the smaller coastal villages.