New Quay

The working harbour at New Quay is the sort of place that pulls you in without fanfare. Fishing boats still tie up here, their hulls reflected in water that shifts between grey and green depending on the light. It's a proper working quay, not a sanitised heritage attraction, which means you'll see fishermen going about their business and the occasional catch being landed.

Walking the quayside is free and takes maybe 45 minutes if you're dawdling. The village itself crowds around the harbour - a tangle of narrow streets lined with cafes, a few gift shops, and the sort of pubs where locals actually drink. There's a small beach tucked below, decent for a paddle but nothing to plan your day around. The real draw is the light here. Ceredigion's coastal stretch gets its dramatic skies and sudden sunshine, and New Quay catches it properly.

Families with younger kids will get an hour out of it, maybe two if they're into watching boats and fish and chips. Walkers should use it as a midpoint on the longer coastal path rather than a destination in itself. Photography types will find morning light worth the early start.

If you're based at one of the nearby caravan parks - Penrhyn Farm is less than a mile away, or Haven Quay West just across the road - New Quay makes a decent evening wander. Don't expect grand views or theatrical drama. It's quieter and more honest than that. Go when the tide's in and the light's good, and you'll understand why artists keep moving here.