Pen Erw-Goed

You'll want solid legs and a decent pair of boots for Pen Erw-Goed. This isn't a casual stroll - it's a proper peak walk in the Cader Idris range, just south of Dolgellau, and the views across the Mawddach estuary make the climb absolutely worthwhile. The walk takes you through woodland at the start, then opens up onto moorland with real teeth to it. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Cardigan Bay. Count on two to three hours for a steady ascent and descent - longer if you're taking photos or stopping for breath.

The terrain is rocky in places and the wind can be fierce when you reach the ridge, so check the weather before you head out. Early morning is your best bet for clear skies, and autumn light makes the whole thing sing. Families with older kids who've done a fair bit of hill walking will manage fine, but little ones will struggle - it's not a "park and hop out" kind of peak.

If you're basing yourself at one of the nearby campsites - Graig Wen is closest, just over a mile away - this works brilliantly as a morning activity. Torrent Walk Campsite, five miles out, is another solid choice if you want a bit more space. The walk itself is free, which is proper good value. Dolgellau itself is worth an afternoon for its market and cafes. You'll earn a decent tea when you're back down.