Berwick-upon-Tweed

Three countries seem to press against each other here, where the River Tweed finally surrenders to the North Sea after its long journey from the Scottish Borders. England's northernmost town has changed hands between Scotland and England more times than anyone bothers counting - thirteen, if you're keeping score.

The Elizabethan ramparts still circle the old town centre, making Berwick the only completely walled town in England. You can walk the entire circuit in about an hour, though you'll want longer to pause at the bastions and take in the views across the estuary. The Main Guard stands sentinel in the market square, a reminder of the garrison days when soldiers kept watch for Scottish raids.

Down by the harbour, the galleries cluster like barnacles on the old quaysides. Artoluso and the Granary Gallery showcase local artists, while That Boat takes its name rather literally. The Berwick Museum and Art Gallery houses an impressive collection for such a small place, including works by LS Lowry who painted here regularly.

Tweedmouth sits across the river, reached by the Victorian Royal Border Bridge or the older stone arches of the seventeenth-century Berwick Bridge. Both war memorials - one in Berwick proper, another in Tweedmouth - speak to the town's military heritage.

The surrounding countryside rolls away in gentle hills dotted with farm buildings and dry stone walls. Holy Island lies just down the coast, accessible at low tide, while the Cheviot Hills rise to the west. Getting here means either the scenic A1 coastal route or the train line that hugs the shore - both offer cracking views of Lindisfarne Castle on its rocky perch.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense for exploring this frontier country. You're well placed for day trips into the Borders, down to Newcastle, or along Northumberland's spectacular coast.