Holyhead

Ferry horns echo across the harbour at dawn, signalling another day's exodus to Dublin and Ireland beyond. Holyhead sits at Anglesey's wild western tip, a working port town that's refreshingly unpretentious. The Irish Sea pounds the rocky coastline here with proper force, especially when Atlantic storms roll in during winter months.

Most visitors rush straight through on their way to the ferry terminal, but that's their loss. The town has grit and character - proper pubs serving locals rather than tourists, and stunning coastal walks that rival anywhere in Wales. Head up to South Stack Lighthouse for cracking views across to the Wicklow Mountains on clear days, though the cliff-top path can be a bit of a trek in strong winds.

Angles way beyond the town centre, St Twrog's Church at Bodwrog offers a peaceful detour, while the railway enthusiasts will appreciate Bodorgan station's Victorian architecture. Bryn Carmel provides excellent hiking if you fancy stretching your legs after the ferry crossing.

Getting here couldn't be simpler - the A55 runs straight into town, and there's regular rail service from Chester and beyond. Bangor lies 25 miles southeast if you need proper shopping or dining options.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense for ferry travellers wanting to break the journey, plus you're ideally placed for exploring Anglesey's rugged coastline without the crowds that descend on Beaumaris or Llangollen. The surrounding countryside feels properly remote - all stone walls and sheep-dotted fields stretching to dramatic cliff edges.