Ilfracombe

The harbour arm stretches into choppy Atlantic waters, while behind it a Victorian town climbs steep hillsides in terraced rows. Ilfracombe wears its seaside heritage proudly - this is proper North Devon coast, all dramatic cliffs and working boats rather than manicured promenades.

Watermouth Castle dominates the eastern approach, a mock-medieval folly that's become something of a local landmark. The castle overlooks Watermouth Bay, where calmer waters make it popular with families seeking shelter from the Atlantic swells. For a different perspective entirely, Bamant's Wood offers woodland walks just inland, while Berrynarbor Park provides a nature reserve escape from the bustle below.

Broadsands gives you that proper North Devon beach experience - not your gentle Cornish cove but something altogether more dramatic. The coastline here doesn't mess about. Wild swimming enthusiasts love it; fair-weather paddlers might think twice.

St Peter church sits quietly above the town, worth the climb for views alone. From here you can see exactly why Ilfracombe became such an important harbour - it's one of the few decent anchorages along this stretch of coast.

Getting here means following the A361 from Barnstaple, about 12 miles of winding roads that prepare you for the coastal drama ahead. The town's compact enough to explore on foot, though those hills will test your calves. Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense - you're close enough to walk down for fish and chips, far enough out to enjoy proper Devon countryside between the tourist crowds.