Ilfracombe

Victorian Gothic spires pierce the sky above this working harbour town, where fishing boats bob alongside pleasure craft in what feels like North Devon's most theatrical setting. The dramatic coastline here puts on quite a show - rugged cliffs plunge into the Bristol Channel while Tunnels Beaches offer a unique swimming experience through hand-carved Victorian passageways.

Ilfracombe's character splits neatly between its gritty maritime heritage and newer tourist veneer. The harbour remains proper busy with working boats, though Damien Hirst's towering Verity sculpture now dominates the skyline. Walking the South West Coast Path eastward reveals some of Devon's wildest scenery, while westward takes you to the gentler charms of Woolacombe's golden sands.

The town itself climbs steeply from the water. St Nicholas Chapel, perched on Lantern Hill, has guided sailors home for centuries and offers cracking views across to Wales on clear days. Down in the old town, narrow streets wind between Victorian terraces that seem to tumble towards the sea.

Getting here means tackling some properly winding A-roads from Barnstaple, about 12 miles inland, though the journey through rolling Devon countryside makes the trek worthwhile. The nearest train station is Barnstaple, connected to Exeter and beyond.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense for exploring this dramatic stretch of coast. You're ideally placed for day trips to Exmoor's purple heather moorland, while Watermouth Castle and its quirky attractions lie just around the coast. The surrounding valleys hide some lovely walking routes, particularly around Hele Bay where a gentle stream reaches the sea between wooded slopes.