Dawlish

Trains thunder past on one of Britain's most dramatic railway lines here, sweeping along the sea wall where waves crash mere metres from the carriages. This is proper seaside Devon - a working town where locals still outnumber tourists, even in summer.

Dawlish sits snugly between the red cliffs and the English Channel, its Victorian seafront largely unspoilt by modern development. The famous railway, immortalised by Brunel, remains the star attraction as mainline services to Cornwall snake past your deckchair. It's genuinely thrilling when a high-speed service roars by at full tilt.

Black swans paddle about in Dawlish Water, the little stream that gives the town its name, completely unbothered by the passing trains. The beach stretches for miles in both directions - proper sand, not pebbles - though it does get busy during school holidays. Weekday visits in spring or autumn reveal a different character entirely.

Cofton village sits just inland, while Teignmouth sprawls to the north with its working port and proper fish market. The coast path winds south towards Teignmouth, offering cracking views back across Lyme Bay on clear days.

Getting here couldn't be easier - Dawlish station sits right on the beach, with regular services from London Paddington taking about three hours. By car, it's a short hop off the A379 coastal route. Several holiday parks dot the area around town, making an ideal base for exploring this stretch of the English Riviera without the Torquay crowds.