Moffat

Sheep outnumber people by a considerable margin in this corner of the Scottish Borders, where rolling hills stretch to every horizon and the air tastes properly fresh. Moffat sits snugly in the Annandale valley, a working market town that's managed to keep its character despite being perfectly positioned for serious hill walking.

The Lowther Hills rise dramatically to the north and east. Hart Fell dominates the skyline at 808 metres, while White Coomb offers some of the finest views in southern Scotland once you've made the trek to its summit. These aren't weekend strolls - Saddle Yoke and Swatte Fell demand proper boots and decent weather. But the rewards are substantial: miles of empty moorland, curlews calling across the heather, and on clear days, glimpses of the Lake District peaks to the south.

Fruid Reservoir provides a gentler alternative, its dark waters reflecting the surrounding fells. The walking here suits families better, though you'll still work up an appetite for one of Moffat's proper pub meals afterwards.

Getting here couldn't be simpler. The A74(M) runs past the town, making it an easy drive from Glasgow or the south. Dumfries lies 22 miles southeast if you need bigger shops or a railway station.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to nip into town for supplies, yet far enough out to wake up to nothing but birdsong. The Moffat Hills don't mess about - they'll test your legs and reward your efforts in equal measure.