Pwllheli

Sand stretches for miles here, backed by dunes that roll inland like frozen waves. Pwllheli sits at the heart of the Llŷn Peninsula, where Welsh feels more natural on the tongue than English and the pace drops to something approaching sanity. This isn't your typical British seaside town - it's got proper substance.

The town serves as the unofficial capital of the peninsula, complete with a mainline railway station that makes getting here surprisingly straightforward from Birmingham or Manchester. No need to navigate winding country lanes for hours. The beach itself runs for four miles of proper sand, not the pebbly disappointment you'll find further east.

Venture beyond the seafront and you'll discover why Pwllheli makes such a clever base. Mynydd Anelog rises to the west, offering cracking views across Cardigan Bay on clear days. The peaks of Pen y Cil and Dinas Bach provide excellent walking without the crowds you'll battle in Snowdonia proper. Down at sea level, viewpoints like Trwyn Cam and Carreg Meudwy reveal the peninsula's dramatic coastline - all jagged headlands and hidden coves.

Eglwys St Maelrhys adds a touch of ancient Wales to proceedings, while the town's position means you're within striking distance of both Abersoch's sailing scene and the wilder reaches of the peninsula's tip. The surrounding holiday parks, from traditional sites like Haven Hafan y Môr to more intimate glamping options, put you right in the sweet spot for exploring this often-overlooked corner of Wales.

Midweek, the town maintains a proper working atmosphere rather than feeling like a tourist theme park. That's half its appeal.