Ryde

Catching the chain ferry from Portsmouth on a bright morning feels properly old-school - and that's exactly what Ryde still does best. This Victorian resort town spreads along the island's northeast coast, its pier stretching half a mile into the Solent like a defiant finger pointing back towards the mainland.

Appletree Beach remains the main draw, though it's more pebbles than sand when the tide's out. The promenade still has that faded seaside charm - think candyfloss and amusement arcades rather than artisan coffee shops. But walk inland and you'll find The Dell, a lovely little garden that most visitors miss entirely.

What makes Ryde special is its position as the gateway to the island's quieter northeast corner. St Helens Duver, managed by the National Trust, offers proper coastal walks through ancient dunes and salt marsh. The views across to Spitbank Fort and Horse Sand Fort are cracking on a clear day.

History buffs should seek out St Helen's Old Church, a atmospheric ruin dating back centuries, and the various war memorials including the D-Day Memorial that remind you of the island's military significance. No Man's Land Fort sits offshore like a Victorian spaceship, while Portsmouth's D-Day Museum is just a ferry ride away.

Getting here couldn't be simpler - regular ferries run from Portsmouth, or you can drive via the Fishbourne crossing. The journey itself is half the fun, especially on the old paddle steamer.

Staying at one of the holiday parks around St Helens or Nodes Point puts you right in the thick of things. You're close enough for evening strolls along the seafront, but far enough out to enjoy the island's wilder side during the day.