Saint Ives

Artists have been drawn to this corner of Cornwall for over a century, and you'll understand why the moment you round the headland and see St Ives spread below. The light here is extraordinary - that particular quality that turns ordinary harbour walls into subjects worthy of a gallery. Barbara Hepworth made this place her home, and her sculpture garden remains one of the town's most compelling draws.

Porthmeor Beach catches the Atlantic swells that have surfers queuing for waves even in winter. The sand is proper Cornish gold, backed by dunes that give way to the South West Coast Path. Families favour Porthminster Beach on the sheltered side - calmer waters and the train line running right alongside for entertainment. The Tate St Ives sits proud above the harbour, its white walls almost glowing against the granite cliffs.

Winding streets climb steeply from the waterfront, lined with galleries that range from serious contemporary spaces to tourist-friendly spots flogging seascapes. The working harbour still lands fish, though these days it's outnumbered by pleasure boats and the occasional seal that's learned to beg for scraps.

Getting here means either braving the summer traffic snarls on the A30 from Exeter, or taking the branch line from St Erth - a lovely half-hour journey that skips the parking nightmares entirely. The town gets properly rammed in high season, which is where staying at one of the nearby holiday parks pays dividends. You're close enough for early morning beach walks before the crowds arrive, yet far enough out to escape the madness when you've had your fill of cobbles and cream teas.