Swansea

Mountains rise dramatically from the city's northern edge, transforming Swansea from seaside destination into something altogether more rugged. While most visitors stick to the famous bay and marina, venture beyond the M4 corridor and you'll find yourself in proper Welsh hill country within minutes.

Cefn Drum and Mynydd Pysgodlyn dominate the skyline here, offering spectacular views back over Swansea Bay on clear days. The climbing's proper - these aren't gentle rolling hills but steep-sided peaks that'll test your lungs. Tor Clawdd provides another decent scramble, while walkers preferring something less punishing can circuit the twin reservoirs at Lower Lliw and Lliw Upper.

History buffs will appreciate J.D. Llewellyn's Equatorial Observatory, a fascinating remnant of Victorian scientific ambition tucked away in these hills. The archaeological site at Penlle'r Castell tells older stories entirely, while the various chapels - Carmel Chapel and Salem Chapel among them - speak to this area's strong nonconformist heritage.

Getting here's straightforward enough. The train runs to Pantyffynnon station, though you're better off driving if you want to properly explore the high ground. Gowerton sits just down the road for supplies and fuel.

Staying at one of the touring parks scattered around this corner of Swansea makes brilliant sense. You're twenty minutes from the city centre and beaches, yet wake up with mountain views. Riverside Holiday Park and South Wales Touring Park both offer decent access to the hill walking, while spots like Black Ewe Glamping provide something a bit more luxurious after a day on the peaks. The contrast couldn't be sharper - urban Wales and wild Wales practically touching.