Brough Castle

The ruins of Brough Castle command the valley like a stubborn old watchdog, perched above the River Eden just outside Kirkby Stephen. What you get is a proper Norman keep - square, solid, still standing after nearly a thousand years - surrounded by the remnants of a bailey and defensive walls. The site's relatively compact, so don't expect to lose half a day here, but the walk up is genuinely worth it for the views alone. From the top you can see for miles across the Eden Valley, and on a clear day the Pennines form a proper backdrop. The castle changed hands between English and Scottish forces repeatedly, which explains why it's been rebuilt and modified so many times. Inside the keep you can still make out the original floors and chambers. It's free to wander around, and there's no visitor centre or crowds to contend with - just you, the stones, and the wind. History enthusiasts and walkers will get the most from it. Families with young kids might find it a bit sparse unless they're already interested in medieval fortifications. The nearest decent accommodation is Gillcumber Glamping Pods, just over two miles away - a proper nice base for exploring the Eden Valley's various castles and walks. Wild Rose Holiday Park sits a bit further out if you want something more traditional. Allow about an hour, longer if you're the type who sits and sketches or takes photographs from every angle.