St Tanwg's, Llandanwg

Walk down a narrow lane near Llanbedr and you'll stumble upon St Tanwg's, a small medieval church that feels like it's been forgotten by time. It's the kind of place where you half expect to find a key hanging behind a loose stone. The church itself is modest - whitewashed walls, a simple nave, the sort of building that wouldn't look out of place in a children's book illustration. What makes it worth the detour is the setting. You're practically at sea level here, with the church sitting close enough to the coast that you can hear the waves. On a clear day the light through the windows feels different somehow, sharper maybe.

This isn't a destination where you'll spend hours. Fifteen minutes inside, another fifteen absorbing the surroundings. But if you're staying at one of the caravan parks nearby - Shell Island is barely over a mile away, or Min-y-don and Woodlands are equally close - it's an excellent excuse to stretch your legs away from the caravans. The walk to get here is pleasant enough, cutting through proper countryside. History types will appreciate the medieval bones of the place, though there's not much interpretation on site, so come with modest expectations.

Bring a torch if you visit in winter. The building's atmospheric rather than grand, and that's precisely what makes it special. It's the sort of spot that reminds you why wandering off the main tourist trail in Gwynedd rewards you with something genuine.