Waterfall Country

The Neath Valley isn't the first place you'd expect to find a cluster of proper waterfalls, but here they are - four of them, dropping through wooded gorges that feel genuinely wild for South Wales. This is Waterfall Country, and it's the sort of place that rewards a decent walk with real views.

You're looking at a waterfall trail that loops through the valley, taking in Sgwd yr Eira (the one where you can walk behind the curtain of water), Sgwd Gwladus, Sgwd Merthyr and Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn. The whole outing takes between two and three hours depending on your pace and how many times you stop to take photos. The path's well-trodden but muddy in places - proper walking boots are essential, not trainers.

This suits walkers first and foremost. Families with older kids will manage it, though there's not much here if your children aren't keen on a good hike. History buffs might appreciate the industrial heritage tucked into the landscape, remnants of the area's mining past. The rocks and rushing water make it genuinely atmospheric rather than merely pretty.

It's free to access and you can start the walk from various points near Neath. Best time is spring or after rain, when the water's properly flowing. Summer gets busy with tourists, which rather spoils the wilderness feeling.

If you're basing yourself at Four Falls Glamping or Willow Springs Campsite nearby, this makes a cracking half or full day out. It's the sort of walk that clears the head and justifies choosing Wales over the Lake District.