Cardigan

The Afon Teifi curves through this ancient market town like a lazy question mark, its waters once ferrying coracles laden with salmon upstream to the castle ruins that still crown the hill. Cardigan feels properly Welsh - Welsh-speaking shopkeepers, proper pubs, and a high street that hasn't quite succumbed to chain stores yet.

Castell Aberteifi dominates the skyline, though it's the town's creative streak that catches you off guard. Canfas gallery showcases contemporary Welsh art, while the Vlad-Art Gallery & Shop offers something completely different - think quirky sculptures alongside traditional landscapes. Oriel Saith and Oriel Cardi Bach round out an unexpectedly strong arts scene for a town this size.

St Dogmaels Abbey sits just downriver, its crumbling Norman arches worth the short walk if you fancy stretching your legs. The ruins feel more authentic than many - grass grows between the stones, and you'll likely have them to yourself midweek.

Cardigan Bay stretches westward from here, with Mwnt Beach a proper stunner when the weather behaves. The coastal path winds past Cardigan Island, where seals bask on the rocks when they can't be bothered to swim. Getting here means the A487 from either Haverfordwest or Aberystwyth - both about an hour's drive through some cracking Ceredigion countryside.

Basing yourself at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to walk into town for dinner at the pubs, but far enough out to wake up to proper countryside views. Plus, Cardigan Bay Active runs kayak trips and coasteering sessions if you fancy getting wet - the Teifi estuary is surprisingly sheltered for beginners.