Haverfordwest

Market day transforms everything here. Twice weekly, the town centre buzzes with farmers hawking local lamb and cheese, but come midweek and High Street feels properly sleepy. This ancient county town sits at the crossroads of four rivers, making it the natural hub of Pembrokeshire - though you'd hardly guess its importance from the quiet weekday streets.

Haverfordwest's real charm lies in being utterly unpretentious. The castle ruins perch above the River Cleddau, offering cracking views across the valley, while down below the old Quay area has been smartly regenerated without losing its working character. The Storybox makes for a quirky cultural stop, celebrating local tales and folklore in ways that feel genuinely Welsh rather than touristy.

What makes this spot brilliant is the countryside on your doorstep. Drive ten minutes and you're at Portfield Gate Community Woodland for proper walks among ancient oaks, or head to Stamford Farm near Camrose where the rolling hills feel like something from a Constable painting. The Parish Church of Saint Ismael Camrose is worth the short detour - Norman stonework that's seen nearly a thousand years of Pembrokeshire weather.

Getting here couldn't be simpler. The A40 runs straight through town, and it's barely 45 minutes from the M4. For exploring the wider county, you really can't beat the location. Tenby's beaches are half an hour south, St Davids cathedral city the same distance west, while Pembroke Castle makes for an easy afternoon out.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks means you get all this accessibility without the summer crowds that swamp the coastal resorts. Proper base camp territory for tackling Pembrokeshire's highlights.