Carmarthen

Standing on the mudflats watching curlews pick through the seaweed, you'd never guess Wales's oldest town sits just upstream. Carmarthen might call itself that, but it feels refreshingly unfussed about its ancient credentials - more working market town than tourist magnet.

The real draw here isn't cobbled streets or castle walls. It's the sweep of Carmarthen Bay and the proper countryside that rolls down to meet it. Traeth Llansteffan Beach stretches for miles when the tide's out, backed by the crumbling ramparts of Castell Llansteffan where Owain Glyndwr once held court. The Norman fortress perches on its headland like a broken crown, offering cracking views across to the Gower Peninsula on clear days.

Llansteffan village, tucked beneath the castle, has that end-of-the-world feeling that Welsh coastal settlements do so well. St Ystyffan's Church sits quietly among the cottages, while Carmarthen Bay Ferries can whisk you across the estuary if you fancy a different perspective. Back in Carmarthen proper, the Old Pound Gallery showcases local artists alongside the usual mix of cafes and charity shops.

Getting here couldn't be simpler - the A40 sweeps you in from both directions, while the train from Cardiff takes about an hour. The surrounding countryside is gentle farming country, all rolling fields and hedgerows that burst into life come spring.

Staying at one of the holiday parks dotted around Carmarthen Bay makes perfect sense. You're close enough for market day supplies but far enough out to hear the curlews calling at dawn. Plus you've got the whole of south-west Wales on your doorstep - Tenby's an hour south, the Brecon Beacons an hour north.