Haverfordwest

Market traders have been calling their wares here since 1219, and the county town atmosphere hasn't changed much. Haverfordwest perches above the Western Cleddau, its steep streets radiating from the castle ruins like spokes on a wheel. The medieval street pattern remains intact, creating an almost amphitheatre effect as you walk up from the river.

St Martin's Church dominates the skyline alongside the Norman castle, though both have seen better days. The town centre feels properly Welsh - independent shops still outnumber chains, and you'll hear as much Welsh as English in the covered market on Castle Square. Wednesdays and Saturdays are the busiest, when farmers from across Pembrokeshire bring their produce to sell.

What makes this place special is its position as gateway to some of Wales's finest coastline. Solva Woollen Mill lies just a few miles west, where the Solva valley cuts dramatically to the sea. Further along, Porthgain Harbour offers one of the most atmospheric spots on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path - former slate quarries now filled with crystal-clear water.

The surrounding countryside rolls in gentle hills toward St David's Peninsula. Prehistoric sites dot the landscape, including the Tre-Maen-Hir Standing Stone and various burial chambers that predate Stonehenge. Local galleries like Raul Speek Gallery and The Little Gallery showcase work inspired by this ancient landscape.

From London, the train takes about five hours via Swansea and Carmarthen. By car, it's roughly four hours down the M4 and A40. Staying at one of the nearby parks like Pembrokeshire Meadows Camping puts you within easy reach of both the coast and countryside, with St David's just 30 minutes west and the Preseli Hills the same distance north.