Fishguard

Two harbours define this weathered port town - the working Goodwick harbour where ferries lumber across to Ireland, and the prettier Lower Town tucked into a rocky inlet that film crews love. Fishguard feels properly Welsh, with steep streets tumbling down hillsides and cottages that have seen centuries of salt spray.

The town splits its personality between practical and scenic. Upper Fishguard handles the daily business - shops, pubs, the train station connecting to Cardiff and beyond. But it's Lower Town that steals hearts, especially around the quay where boats bob against stone walls. This is where the 1797 French invasion famously fizzled out at Carregwestad Point, the last invasion of mainland Britain.

Venture inland and you'll find proper ancient Wales. Carreg Samson, a 5,000-year-old burial chamber, sits on the moors like a stone giant's table. The Garnwnda Burial Chamber offers another glimpse into prehistoric Pembrokeshire. For something more recent - though still centuries old - seek out the tiny Capel Sion or St Gwyndaf's church tucked into the countryside.

Walkers have brilliant options here. Carne Woods and Manorowen Wood provide sheltered rambles when coastal winds blow fierce. The peaks of Manorowen Hill and Pen Globo reward climbers with sweeping views across the Irish Sea towards the Wicklow Mountains on clear days.

Getting here couldn't be simpler - the train from Cardiff takes about three hours, or it's a straightforward drive along the A40 then A487. Having a holiday park base nearby makes perfect sense. You're positioned for ferry trips to Ireland, coastal path walking, and exploring the Preseli Hills without battling Tenby's summer crowds.