Launceston

Ancient stones dot the moorland horizon like forgotten sentinels. Launceston sits at the gateway between Devon and Cornwall, where the A30 traffic thunders past but the real treasures lie beyond the bypass. This proper market town has been Cornwall's unofficial capital for centuries, though you wouldn't guess it from the quiet weekday streets.

The castle ruins crown the hill above town - what's left of medieval Cornwall's seat of power commands cracking views across the Tamar Valley. Below, narrow streets wind between Georgian terraces and Victorian shopfronts, many now housing independent cafes and antique shops that thrive when the tourists discover them.

Moorland stretches in every direction. Trewortha Tor and Fox Tor rise from Bodmin Moor's granite backbone, while Hawk's Tor offers the kind of windswept walking that makes you forget the modern world exists. These aren't gentle hills - they're proper Cornish tors that demand decent boots and respect for the weather.

Woodland walks provide gentler options. Trebursye Wood and the various plantations scattered across the landscape offer shelter when the moor turns moody. The archaeological site at Allabury hints at Bronze Age settlements, though you'll need local knowledge to find the best remains.

Getting here means either the A30 from Exeter or the more scenic route through Devon's lanes. The old railway line is long gone, but Newmills station once connected Launceston to the wider world. Now it's a 40-minute drive from Bodmin Parkway if you're coming by train.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense. You're central for both Dartmoor day trips and Cornwall's north coast, while Bodmin Moor's wildest sections lie practically on your doorstep.