Oban

Ferry horns echo across the harbour at all hours, a constant reminder that this is Scotland's gateway to the Hebrides. Oban wraps around its bay like an amphitheatre, with Victorian terraces climbing the hillsides and fishing boats bobbing alongside CalMac ferries. The smell of fresh seafood mingles with diesel fumes - proper working port atmosphere.

McCaig's Tower dominates the skyline from Battery Hill, that mock-Colosseum folly visible from miles around. It's a bit of a climb but the views over the Sound of Kerrera are cracking. The Ocean Explorer Centre down at the harbour makes for a decent rainy day option, though the real attraction is simply watching the island traffic come and go.

Walking trails snake up the surrounding peaks - Ganavan Hill offers easier going than some of the steeper climbs like Bàrr Cruinn. Lochan Dubh provides a peaceful escape from the harbour bustle, though you'll hear the ferry announcements echoing even there.

Getting here is straightforward enough - the A85 from Glasgow takes about three hours, with the last stretch through proper Highland scenery. Train connections aren't bad either, though the road's more reliable.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough for evening fish and chips on the harbour front, but far enough out to escape the summer crowds and early morning ferry queues. The surrounding area offers endless scope for island-hopping day trips, from Mull to Iona, with Oban as your mainland base.