Penrith

Red sandstone buildings line the market square where farmers still gather on Tuesdays, much as they have for centuries. Penrith sits at the edge of the Lake District proper, working as a proper Cumbrian market town rather than a tourist honeypot.

The town centre feels refreshingly authentic. Local shops outnumber chain stores, and you'll find decent pubs that haven't been tarted up for visitors. It's the kind of place where you can grab proper supplies before heading into the fells, or catch your breath after a few days wild camping.

From here, the real adventure starts. Arthur's Pike offers cracking views across the Eden Valley without the crowds you'd find on Helvellyn. Serious walkers head for Lords Seat and Dale Hause, while those after something more mysterious might seek out the ancient stone circles at Swarth Fell or the enigmatic Hag Stones scattered across the moors.

The surrounding countryside is properly wild. Heughscar Hill and Hodgson Hill provide testing climbs, while Winder Plantation offers gentler woodland walks when the weather turns. White Raise cairn marks one of several archaeological treasures that dot these ancient landscapes - evidence of settlements going back millennia.

Getting here is straightforward enough. The M6 runs nearby, and the train line connects directly to London and Scotland. It's about 20 minutes south of Carlisle if you're coming from the north.

Staying at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to nip into town for groceries or a pint, but far enough out to wake up surrounded by proper countryside. The fells stretch in every direction, and you can be walking ancient tracks within minutes of leaving your pitch.