Penrith

A proper market town that's managed to keep its soul despite the tourist influx, Penrith sits perfectly positioned between the northern Lakes and the Eden Valley. The red sandstone buildings give the place real character - none of that twee Cotswolds prettiness, just honest Cumbrian charm.

The town makes an excellent jumping-off point for serious fell walking. You've got Gowbarrow Fell and Hallin Fell within striking distance, both proper Wainwrights that'll give you cracking views without the crowds you'll find on Helvellyn. Little Mell Fell is perfect for a quick leg-stretch if you fancy something easier. The area's riddled with lesser-known peaks like Great Meldrum and Bonscale Pike - ideal if you want to escape the boot-beaten paths.

Penrith itself has kept its working town feel. The Tuesday market's been running for centuries, and the high street isn't just charity shops and Costa Coffee - though midweek can be a bit quiet. The castle ruins are worth a look, and there's a decent selection of proper pubs for post-walk pints.

Getting here's straightforward enough. The M6 runs right past, and there's a mainline railway station with direct services to London. You're only twenty minutes from Ullswater, thirty from Keswick, making it a sensible base for exploring without the Lake District price tags.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks like Ullswater Holiday Park or Park Foot Holiday Park gives you the best of both worlds - easy access to the fells and lakes, but with Penrith's shops and services on your doorstep when you need them.