Stroud

Steep wooded valleys and rolling hills cradle this former mill town where independent shops line narrow streets once filled with the clatter of cloth-making machinery. Stroud sits in the heart of the Cotswolds, though it feels refreshingly different from the honey-stone tourist magnets further east.

The Five Valleys converge here, creating dramatic landscapes that walkers adore. Painswick Beacon offers some of the finest views in Gloucestershire - a proper climb but well worth the effort on a clear day. For something less demanding, the network of canal towpaths makes for lovely afternoon strolls.

Stroud's Saturday farmers market is the real deal, not some gentrified affair. Local producers sell everything from rare-breed pork to artisan cheeses, and the coffee's excellent too. The town centre has character - vintage shops, record stores, and cafes that feel genuinely local rather than chain-store bland.

Getting here is straightforward enough. The train from London Paddington takes about 90 minutes, though you'll need to change at Swindon. By car, junction 13 of the M5 puts you within striking distance, then it's a winding drive through proper Cotswold countryside.

Staying at one of the glamping sites dotted around the valleys makes perfect sense. Places like Painswick Glamping and The Glamping Orchard put you right in the landscape rather than stuck in some soulless hotel. You're perfectly positioned for exploring the network of ancient hillforts and manor houses - Grove Court and Brookthorpe Court among them - that pepper these hills. It's walking country at its finest, with enough peaks like Upton Hill and Wickridge Hill to keep keen ramblers busy for a fortnight.