Dolgellau

Gold rush fever once gripped these valleys, and the ghosts of that 19th-century scramble still echo around every bend. Dolgellau sits in a proper mountain bowl, surrounded by peaks that feel close enough to touch on clear days. The Mawddach estuary glints silver to the west, while ancient oak woods climb the hillsides like something from a Tolkien novel.

Walk five minutes from the town square and you'll stumble across reminders of when this was Wales' answer to California. Cefn Coch New California Gold Mine tells that story better than any museum could. The Victorian tunnels at Berth-lwyd Gold Mine are equally atmospheric, though you'll need decent boots for the scramble up.

Mountain baggers have their pick of challenges. Mynydd Glan-Llyn-y-Forwyn offers the best views for your effort, while Foel Ispri gives you a proper workout without the crowds you'd get on Cadair Idris. The industrial archaeology fans should seek out Glasdir Copper Mine - it's a bit of a trek but tells the fuller story of how these mountains were carved up for metal.

Rhaeadr Du Waterfalls provide the perfect cool-down after a day's hiking. The cascade drops through ancient woodland that barely sees sunlight even in summer.

Getting here means the A470 through Snowdonia - allow extra time because you'll want to stop for photos. The nearest train station is Barmouth, about 9 miles away on the coast. Staying at Coed y Brenin Forest Camp puts you right in the heart of mountain bike country, with trails that range from family-friendly to absolutely mental.