Haverfordwest

Market day still matters here. Twice weekly, traders set up stalls around the castle ruins, selling everything from Welsh lamb to handknitted jumpers - proper local commerce that's survived since medieval times.

Haverfordwest sits on the Western Cleddau river, its Georgian terraces climbing steep hillsides away from the water. The castle dominates the skyline, though what remains is mostly 13th-century walls and a museum that tells the story of Pembrokeshire's turbulent past. Below, the town centre feels refreshingly ungentrified - independent shops still outnumber chains, and you'll find decent pubs that haven't been sanitised for tourists.

West Wales opens up around you here. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is just fifteen minutes by car, with Broad Haven and Newgale offering serious surf when conditions align. St David's Cathedral sits half an hour northwest - Britain's smallest city built around its magnificent medieval heart. For something quieter, the churches at Brawdy and Llandeloy showcase Norman architecture without the crowds.

Porth Mynawyd provides coastal walking with proper cliff-top views. Less known than the main coastal hotspots, it rewards those willing to venture beyond the obvious.

Getting here means the A40 from Carmarthen or the A487 coastal route - both scenic in their own way. Staying at one of the nearby parks puts you within striking distance of both coast and countryside, with Haverfordwest's shops and restaurants providing a useful base between beach days and castle exploring. The surrounding caravan sites offer everything from basic pitches to glamping pods, scattered across rolling Pembrokeshire farmland that's remained largely unchanged for decades.