Lampeter

University students have shaped this mid-Wales market town for over 150 years, giving it a properly lived-in feel that's worlds apart from touristy coastal spots. Lampeter sits in the Teifi Valley, where rolling green hills dotted with ancient oak woods create one of Wales' most peaceful landscapes. The town itself is compact - you can walk from one end to the other in ten minutes - but there's genuine character here, from the gothic revival buildings of the university campus to the independent shops along the high street.

Theatre Felinfach brings surprisingly good productions to this corner of Ceredigion, while the surrounding countryside is riddled with fascinating remnants of the past. Castell and Castell Trefilan offer glimpses of medieval fortifications, though you'll need proper walking boots to reach them through the bracken. The network of ancient woodlands - Allt Pen-cnwc, College Wood, and Cwrt Plantation among them - provides cracking walking territory where red kites circle overhead and you might spot the odd fox.

Several churches dot the landscape, including the atmospheric St Michael's Church and the remote Gartheli Church, each telling stories of communities that have farmed these valleys for centuries. The Teifi itself meanders through water meadows below town, popular with canoeists heading downstream towards Cardigan.

Getting here means driving - Lampeter sits roughly halfway between Aberystwyth and Carmarthen on the A482. It's a proper base for exploring inland Ceredigion without the summer crowds that swamp the coast. Staying at one of the nearby parks like Treberfedd Farm or Go Eco Glamping puts you right in the heart of this gentle countryside, with easy access to both the Cambrian Mountains and the heritage coast.