UK

The High Street slopes down towards the River Wey, past medieval timber frames that somehow survived centuries of change. Guildford feels properly lived-in rather than tourist-polished - students from the university on Stag Hill mix with commuters heading to London, while the cobbled streets around the Guildhall buzz with independent shops and decent cafés.

Climbing St Martha's Hill gives you the best sense of this Surrey market town's setting. The North Downs roll away in green waves, dotted with chalk paths that medieval pilgrims once trod. It's a proper workout to the top, but the views stretch to the South Downs on clear days. Back in town, the Electric Theatre puts on everything from touring West End shows to experimental drama, while Guildford House Gallery showcases local artists alongside bigger names.

Abbot's Hospital, with its Tudor brickwork and ancient almshouse courtyards, reminds you this place has been important since the Middle Ages. The castle ruins perched above the high street are less impressive than they sound - more romantic ruin than fortress - but Pewley Hill offers cracking views over the town's red rooftops.

Guildford sits bang in the middle of excellent walking country. The North Downs Way passes right through, and you're 30 minutes by train from Waterloo if you fancy a day in London. Having a base at one of the nearby parks makes perfect sense - you can explore the Surrey Hills properly without the hassle of town parking, plus several sites like Embers Camping near Polesden Lacey put you right in National Trust countryside.