Whitby

Gothic abbey ruins loom over red-roofed houses that tumble down to a harbour where fishing boats still land their catch. This is Yorkshire's most atmospheric coastal town, where Bram Stoker found inspiration for Dracula and where the scent of fish and chips mingles with sea salt on cobbled streets.

Whitby's twin personalities never quite mesh. The old town huddles beneath the abbey's skeletal remains, all narrow ginnels and antique shops, while the newer west side sprawls more sensibly around the train station. West Cliff Beach stretches for miles - proper sand, not shingle - though it gets busy in summer. The real magic happens when you climb the 199 steps to St Mary's Church and Whitby Abbey. Worth every puff.

Venture beyond town and you'll find proper Yorkshire countryside. Falling Foss Waterfall makes a lovely walk through ancient woodland, especially after rain when it's in full flow. The North York Moors press close - vast purple expanses in late summer that seem to roll on forever. Sleights station puts you on the heritage railway line that winds through Eskdale's dramatic valleys.

Getting here's straightforward enough. The A171 coast road winds dramatically but takes its time, while trains from York or Middlesbrough drop you right in the centre. Scarborough's about 20 miles south if you fancy a day trip.

Staying at one of the clifftop parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to nip into town for evening fish and chips, but far enough out to appreciate the moors stretching inland and the North Sea's endless horizon. Plus, you'll dodge the summer crowds that pack the narrow streets.