Kielder Water & Forest Park

Water the colour of slate stretches for nine miles through some of England's wildest countryside. Kielder Water & Forest Park is the sort of place that makes you understand why people move to Northumberland and never leave. The reservoir sits at the heart of Europe's largest working forest, surrounded by dark coniferous woodland that's genuinely atmospheric - less chocolate-box pretty, more properly atmospheric.

You can walk the perimeter if you're feeling ambitious, though most visitors pick a section. The visitor centre side offers easier terrain with decent views across the water. Walkers get the most from this - pack proper boots, the paths can be boggy - but families with younger kids will be content on the gentler stretches near the lodges. Photography types should come when the light's low and brooding, which is most of the time up here.

It's free to wander the park itself. Allow at least a couple of hours to feel you've actually experienced it rather than just driven through. Late autumn's best if you can manage it - fewer people, moodier weather, the water reflects everything properly.

The holiday parks clustered nearby - Landal Kielder Waterside and Kielder Waterside and Lodges are both within walking distance - make this a natural base for a few days. Hexham's close enough for provisions if you run short. Don't expect entertainment or hustle; come here if you want to switch off and breathe.