Barnard Castle

That controversial eye test destination turned out to be one of County Durham's most engaging market towns. Barnard Castle sits confidently above the River Tees, its medieval streets climbing upward from the ancient castle ruins that gave the town its name. The market cross still anchors the cobbled marketplace where farmers have traded for centuries.

Bowes Castle commands attention just outside town - a 12th-century keep that's seen better days but still impresses from its roadside perch. More intriguing is Lavatrae Roman Fort, where you can trace the outline of walls that once guarded this frontier outpost. The Romans knew prime real estate when they saw it.

Walkers have proper choices here. Crag Hill offers the best views over Teesdale's patchwork fields, while Battle Hill lives up to its dramatic name with sweeping vistas across the Pennine foothills. Green Fell Plantation provides shelter on blustery days, its paths winding through mature woodland that's lovely in autumn.

Getting here couldn't be simpler - the A66 cuts straight through the heart of the Pennines, making Barnard Castle an easy drive from the A1 or M6. Darlington sits 17 miles southeast if you need bigger shops or a railway station.

Staying at one of the local caravan parks makes complete sense. You're perfectly placed for day trips into the Yorkshire Dales or across to the Lake District, yet tucked away from the crowds that descend on those honeypot destinations. Teesdale itself deserves a fortnight - its quiet valleys and Roman remains tell stories that most visitors rush past on their way to more obvious attractions.