Haverfordwest

Castle ruins crown the hilltop above this market town, their limestone walls catching the afternoon light across the Cleddau valley. Haverfordwest feels properly Welsh despite being in Little England beyond Wales - that curious corner of Pembrokeshire where English was spoken for centuries. The town centre slopes down from the castle towards the Western Cleddau, with independent shops filling Victorian terraces alongside the usual chains.

Wednesday market days bring life to the pedestrianised streets, but come midweek and you'll find the place refreshingly quiet. The castle itself deserves an hour - what's left of it anyway. Built by the Normans, it controlled river traffic for centuries before Cromwell's troops knocked lumps off it.

From here, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path beckons just fifteen minutes west. Little Haven and Broad Haven offer proper seaside experiences without the crowds of Tenby. Nolton Haven feels even more remote. Head inland instead and you're into walking country - gentle hills and hidden valleys that most tourists miss entirely.

Train links from Cardiff take about three hours, though driving gives you proper freedom to explore those coastal villages. The A40 brings you straight in from England, while local buses connect the beaches - handy if you're camping nearby.

Staying at one of the local parks puts you within striking distance of both coast and countryside. Twenty minutes gets you to some of Pembrokeshire's finest beaches, yet you're close enough to nip into town for supplies or that decent Welsh breakfast most campsites can't match.