Haverfordwest

Castle ruins crown the hilltop here, watching over one of Pembrokeshire's most underrated market towns. Haverfordwest sprawls across the River Cleddau's banks, its Georgian townhouses climbing steep streets that feel properly lived-in rather than polished for tourists.

The weekly market still draws farmers from across west Wales. Proper stuff - lamb from the Preseli Hills, cockles from Penclawdd. It's the sort of place where you can grab decent coffee and browse independent shops without fighting through crowds.

Broad Haven Beach lies just eight miles southwest, where families spread out across golden sand backed by dramatic cliffs. The Boathouse Gallery sits right on the seafront there, showcasing local artists whose work captures this wild coastline perfectly. Back in town, both Broad Haven Baptist Church and St Madoc Of Ferns offer glimpses into the area's spiritual heritage.

From Haverfordwest, you're bang in the middle of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park territory. The coastal path winds past secluded coves and seal colonies. Inland, the Preseli Hills roll green and empty - ancient burial chambers dot the landscape like scattered stones.

Getting here means the M4 then A40 - about four hours from London, two from Cardiff. The train from Paddington takes five hours but drops you right in the town centre.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes perfect sense. Little Haven Campsite and Creampots Touring Caravan & Camping Park put you within easy reach of both coast and countryside. You can wake up to sea air, spend mornings on the beach, then explore Haverfordwest's independent shops and pubs come afternoon. It's base camp for the whole of Pembrokeshire's western edge.