Llanybydder

Four ancient churches stand within walking distance of each other here, testament to this Welsh farming town's enduring spiritual heart. Llanybydder sits quietly in the Teifi Valley, where the landscape rolls in gentle green waves and sheep outnumber visitors by considerable margins.

The town itself won't detain you long - it's properly rural, the sort of place where the post office doubles as the community hub. But step beyond the main road and you'll find yourself in surprisingly wild country. Pen Moel-hedog rises to the north, offering cracking views across Ceredigion's patchwork fields, while several ancient forests cling to the hillsides - Allt Pyllau'r Bryn and Allt Tan-fforest among them.

History buffs should seek out the Ulcagnus Stone, a fascinating relic that speaks to the area's deep past. The various chapels scattered across the landscape tell their own story of Welsh rural life, from St John's Church in the town centre to the more remote Yr Hen Gapel.

Getting here requires commitment. The nearest proper town is Lampeter, about eight miles east, while Cardigan lies twenty miles to the southwest. You'll need a car to make the most of this corner of Wales.

Staying at one of the nearby holiday parks makes excellent sense if you're after proper Welsh countryside without the crowds. The Teifi Valley offers superb walking, and you're within striking distance of the Ceredigion coast - though that's a good hour's drive through some lovely but winding lanes. This is Wales at its most unhurried, where the pace of life still follows the seasons rather than the calendar.