Pwllheli

The Welsh language flows freely through the streets here, carried on the salt breeze that sweeps in from Cardigan Bay. Pwllheli sits at the heart of the Llŷn Peninsula like a gateway to wilder Wales, where the mountains of Snowdonia meet the Irish Sea in spectacular fashion.

This market town has proper character. The high street might look quiet on a Tuesday afternoon, but come weekend and it buzzes with locals doing their weekly shop and visitors stocking up before heading to the coast. The railway line terminates here - you can catch the Cambrian Coast line all the way from Birmingham, which makes it brilliantly accessible without a car.

Venture beyond the town centre and you'll find yourself in hill walking country that most tourists miss entirely. Mynydd Carnguwch looms to the north, while the more ambitious can tackle the triple peaks of Yr Eifl. The views from up there stretch across the peninsula to Snowdon on a clear day. Tre'r Ceiri Hill Fort, perched high on the ridges, offers a glimpse into Iron Age Wales - the stone circles are remarkably well preserved.

For something completely different, seek out St Beuno's Church or the atmospheric ruins of Pistyll Chapel. Both sit in valleys that feel utterly remote despite being just miles from town.

The coastline here is what really sets Pwllheli apart. Sandy beaches stretch in both directions, backed by dunes that provide shelter from the prevailing westerlies. A holiday park base gives you the freedom to explore this stretch of coast properly - from the quiet coves near Llanbedrog to the surfing beaches further west. The train connection means day trips to Snowdonia are perfectly feasible too.