Anstruther

Fish and chips never taste quite as good as they do by the harbour here, where seagulls wheel overhead and fishing boats bob at their moorings. This East Neuk fishing village has kept its working character despite the day trippers - lobster creels still line the quayside, and the smell of the sea mingles with batter from the famous Anstruther Fish Bar.

Kellie Castle stands just inland, a proper 16th-century tower house with restored walled gardens that locals reckon are some of Fife's finest. The walk there takes you through rolling farmland dotted with reservoirs like Carnbee and Balmonth - not exactly scenic highlights, but they break up the landscape nicely.

Saint Fillan's Cave in nearby Pittenweem is worth the short trip. Legend says the 7th-century saint lived here, though these days it's more curiosity than pilgrimage site. The Heritage Collection at St Monans tells the area's fishing story properly, while the old saltpans remind you this coast once produced salt for half of Scotland.

From Edinburgh, it's an hour and a quarter by car along the A90 then A915. Staying at one of the holiday parks around Elie or St Monans puts you right on the coastal path - perfect for morning walks before the crowds arrive. The whole East Neuk stretch rewards a few days' exploration, with each village having its own character despite being barely a mile apart.