Haverfordwest

Castle walls rise above the Western Cleddau River, where this medieval market town has held court as Pembrokeshire's county town for centuries. Haverfordwest proper feels refreshingly unpretentious - a working town that happens to have one of Wales's finest Norman fortresses perched above its Georgian high street.

The castle ruins tell quite a story, built by Gilbert de Clare in the 1120s on a limestone outcrop that commands sweeping views across the Daugleddau estuary. It's a proper climb up Castle Hill, but worth every step for the panoramas stretching towards the Preseli Hills. Down in the town centre, the mix of independent shops and familiar chains keeps things lively most days, though it quiets considerably midweek.

This is your gateway to coastal Pembrokeshire's greatest hits. St Davids lies just 16 miles northwest - Britain's smallest city with its magnificent cathedral and the wild Atlantic beyond. Milford Haven's deep-water harbour sprawls to the south, while Fishguard's ferry port connects you to Ireland if wanderlust strikes.

Haverfordwest sits bang in the middle of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path's most spectacular stretches. Newgale's endless beach runs just 12 miles west, perfect for surfing or simply watching Atlantic rollers crash against the sand. The National Park's rugged coastline unfolds in both directions from here.

Staying at one of the holiday parks scattered around Haverfordwest makes perfect sense. You're close enough to nip into town for supplies or a proper meal, yet positioned ideally for day trips to the coast. Newgale Coast Holiday Park puts you practically on the beach, while spots like Tregroes offer a more rural base for exploring both the stunning coastline and the gentler countryside inland.