Barnard Castle

The River Tees cuts a dramatic swathe through this market town, creating some of the most spectacular gorge scenery in County Durham. Barnard Castle proper sits confidently above the water, its medieval streets dropping steeply towards the riverbank where the ruins of the 12th-century castle give the place its name.

Walking the town feels like stepping back several decades. Independent shops still line the cobbled market cross, and on Wednesdays the weekly market brings a proper buzz to the centre. The Bowes Museum dominates the eastern approach - a French château that looks wildly out of place in Teesdale but houses one of the finest collections outside London.

Grotto Wood offers lovely riverside walks where the Tees has carved limestone cliffs and hidden pools. It's particularly stunning in autumn when the mixed woodland explodes into colour. The path eventually connects with longer routes into the Yorkshire Dales, though you'll need proper boots if the weather's been wet.

Getting here means either the A67 from Darlington (about 16 miles east) or winding your way through the Pennines from the west. There's no railway, so it's very much a car destination. The nearest big town is Darlington, though Bishop Auckland is closer if you're coming from the A1.

Staying at one of the local caravan parks makes perfect sense for exploring upper Teesdale. You're positioned between the Yorkshire Dales proper and the North Pennines AONB, with Raby Castle just down the road and High Force waterfall a short drive upstream. The town itself rewards a couple of days - there's more here than most people expect.