Leven

The promenade stretches for two miles along this no-nonsense Fife coast, where families have been coming for proper seaside holidays since Victorian times. Leven sits square on the Firth of Forth, facing Edinburgh's distant skyline across choppy grey waters that turn silver on clear days.

Flagstaff Hill rises behind the town - a decent climb that rewards walkers with views across to Arthur's Seat and the Pentland Hills. The ancient barrow on its summit reminds you that folk have been drawn to this spot for millennia. Down in the valley, Bankhead Moss Nature Reserve offers quieter pleasures, particularly for birdwatchers who know their sedge warblers from their reed buntings.

The town itself keeps things real. Fish and chip shops outnumber fancy restaurants, the high street has proper shops rather than designer boutiques, and the beach is genuinely sandy - not the rocky affair you'll find further up the coast. Bowbridge Alpacas Scotland brings a touch of the unexpected to the countryside just outside town, while Largoward Parish Church sits prettily among farmland that rolls inland towards the Lomond Hills.

Kirkcaldy lies eight miles west for bigger shops and transport links, but honestly, you come to Leven to slow down. The surrounding woods - Muir Plantation and Pelly Wood among them - offer gentle walking without the crowds that descend on more famous Fife locations.

Basing yourself at one of the local holiday parks makes perfect sense. You're close enough to hear the waves but far enough back to avoid the weekend day-trippers. Plus, this stretch of coast gets properly quiet once the schools go back - just you, the seals, and miles of empty sand.